Gun nuts only

[freedomfightercaptain of 1,000]

Who says guns are the only way to defend oneself?

[bobhenstracaptain of 1,000]

Lol, never throw your weapon, if you miss you no longer have a weapon!

Bob

[bobhenstracaptain of 1,000]

This guy does great bullet reviews on youtube. This video was the reason I load Gold Dot JHPs (and the fact that they're the only bonded bullet I can get locally with any degree of certainty).

A hollow point round I really like is the Rainier bonded hollow point.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/105011 ... eter-165-g

16 cents a bullet

[one4freedomcaptain of 100]

This guy does great bullet reviews on youtube. This video was the reason I load Gold Dot JHPs (and the fact that they're the only bonded bullet I can get locally with any degree of certainty).

A hollow point round I really like is the Rainier bonded hollow point.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/105011 ... eter-165-g

16 cents a bullet

Nice! I'm a little apprehensive about loading plated bullets to high velocity for my .40 polygonal bbl though. I shoot them in competition, but they're loaded pretty low.

[bobhenstracaptain of 1,000]

Your shooting hollow points in competition? Maybe I misunderstand you! I shoot lead bullets all the time, after every shooting session I simply fire a jacketed bullet through my gun, the jacketed bullet compresses and loosens any lead deposits in the barrel which easily shake out. I then give my weapon a drowning with WD-40 which takes out any remaining lead sludge. Wrap the gun in linen and store it barrel down for a couple of days. Take it out of storage, wipe it down and replace it in it's holster.

Wash the linen---

Bob

[Legioncaptain of 1,000]

Your shooting hollow points in competition? Maybe I misunderstand you! I shoot lead bullets all the time, after every shooting session I simply fire a jacketed bullet through my gun, the jacketed bullet compresses and loosens any lead deposits in the barrel which easily shake out. I then give my weapon a drowning with WD-40 which takes out any remaining lead sludge. Wrap the gun in linen and store it barrel down for a couple of days. Take it out of storage, wipe it down and replace it in it's holster.

Wash the linen---

Bob

Ah....thank you Bob! Always full of little nuggets of wisdom and experience...

[one4freedomcaptain of 100]

Your shooting hollow points in competition? Maybe I misunderstand you! I shoot lead bullets all the time, after every shooting session I simply fire a jacketed bullet through my gun, the jacketed bullet compresses and loosens any lead deposits in the barrel which easily shake out. I then give my weapon a drowning with WD-40 which takes out any remaining lead sludge. Wrap the gun in linen and store it barrel down for a couple of days. Take it out of storage, wipe it down and replace it in it's holster.

Wash the linen---

Bob

Sorry for the ambiguity. I shoot plated bullets in competition, but they aren't HPs. I load them to about a 135 power factor (weight in grains * velocity in ft/sec / 1000). A few things are working against me for loading plated bullets as a defensive round. Plated bullets behave like lead bullets without the fouling. This means they seal better in the chamber, which raises the pressure. GLOCKs also have a polygonal-rifled barrel which seals better than a button-rifled barrel, and they don't have a fully-supported chamber. Since the .40 S&W is already a higher-pressure round, I don't like flirting with high pressure loads that I would want my defensive loads to be. I prefer just a regular JHP for these reasons.

Also, the bullets you linked don't appear to be bonded. It probably isn't a big issue for them since the plating could separate and the bullet would probably retain a most of its mass. There have been a some good advancements in bullets since that kind of design which I like to use.

I do cast and use lead (mix of linotype, wheel weight and straight lead) in my .45, but I don't like telling people I shoot a 1911. It makes me sound old.

[Legioncaptain of 1,000]

Your shooting hollow points in competition? Maybe I misunderstand you! I shoot lead bullets all the time, after every shooting session I simply fire a jacketed bullet through my gun, the jacketed bullet compresses and loosens any lead deposits in the barrel which easily shake out. I then give my weapon a drowning with WD-40 which takes out any remaining lead sludge. Wrap the gun in linen and store it barrel down for a couple of days. Take it out of storage, wipe it down and replace it in it's holster.

Wash the linen---

Bob

Sorry for the ambiguity. I shoot plated bullets in competition, but they aren't HPs. I load them to about a 135 power factor (weight in grains * velocity in ft/sec / 1000). A few things are working against me for loading plated bullets as a defensive round. Plated bullets behave like lead bullets without the fouling. This means they seal better in the chamber, which raises the pressure. GLOCKs also have a polygonal-rifled barrel which seals better than a button-rifled barrel, and they don't have a fully-supported chamber. Since the .40 S&W is already a higher-pressure round, I don't like flirting with high pressure loads that I would want my defensive loads to be. I prefer just a regular JHP for these reasons.

Also, the bullets you linked don't appear to be bonded. It probably isn't a big issue for them since the plating could separate and the bullet would probably retain a most of its mass. There have been a some good advancements in bullets since that kind of design which I like to use.

I do cast and use lead (mix of linotype, wheel weight and straight lead) in my .45, but I don't like telling people I shoot a 1911. It makes me sound old.

LOL.....sooner or later we all get old. Of course I'll be young for eternity...but I still get old too!

[bobhenstracaptain of 1,000]

OLD, OLD? You calling me old??? Lol, my sons are you age, they prefer their .45's. But it doesn't matter what kind of gun you shoot as long as you can hit what you aim at! A .22 right between the eyes is as effective as my .45..

I changed the grips on my .45's, wow, they fit my large hands real well. And I hit what I'm shooting at. I'm not into competition shooting now, did a bit of that years ago, but then did to much moving around (changing jobs) to keep it up.

I really like the Rainier plated bullets, they're cheap and, I fired one into a deer I had just dropped to see what kind of damage they'd do. Shot the deer in the neck with my rifle, then 20 feet away fired the plated HP into the deer's rib cage. Wow, what damage! Bullet hit a rib first, fragmented and destroyed the heart and lungs. Bullet loaded at 830 FPS. .45..

The deer do a lot of damage to orchards in my area. For years I kept myself in venison steaks helping the fruit farmers keep the deer out of their orchards, the farmers have special permits. I'd take the back straps, the farmers Mexican workers take the rest. Now we can no longer shoot the deer with guns, nosy neighbors, so crossbows are the favored weapon. I got out of that racket when my wife got sick, now I'm to old to get back into it.

Just ordered 500 more Rainier .40 165 grain HP from Midway. 1000 Zombies, powder and 5000 primers .223 from Widners. Going to stay busy all Summer!

Bob

[one4freedomcaptain of 100]

OLD, OLD? You calling me old??? Lol, my sons are you age, they prefer their .45's. But it doesn't matter what kind of gun you shoot as long as you can hit what you aim at! A .22 right between the eyes is as effective as my .45..

I changed the grips on my .45's, wow, they fit my large hands real well. And I hit what I'm shooting at. I'm not into competition shooting now, did a bit of that years ago, but then did to much moving around (changing jobs) to keep it up.

I really like the Rainier plated bullets, they're cheap and, I fired one into a deer I had just dropped to see what kind of damage they'd do. Shot the deer in the neck with my rifle, then 20 feet away fired the plated HP into the deer's rib cage. Wow, what damage! Bullet hit a rib first, fragmented and destroyed the heart and lungs. Bullet loaded at 830 FPS. .45..

The deer do a lot of damage to orchards in my area. For years I kept myself in venison steaks helping the fruit farmers keep the deer out of their orchards, the farmers have special permits. I'd take the back straps, the farmers Mexican workers take the rest. Now we can no longer shoot the deer with guns, nosy neighbors, so crossbows are the favored weapon. I got out of that racket when my wife got sick, now I'm to old to get back into it.

Just ordered 500 more Rainier .40 165 grain HP from Midway. 1000 Zombies, powder and 5000 primers .223 from Widners. Going to stay busy all Summer!

Bob

Beauty! You obviously are happy with the performance, but for posterity sake I will just add that conventional wisdom is you want between 12-18 inches of penetration in a defensive load. Too much and you over penetrate risking the lives of those behind an assailant. Too little and you might not be hitting vitals to stop the threat. A lot of actual shootings involve hand/arm hits at odd angles. If your bullet fragments on someone's hand, there is a good chance it isn't going to penetrate through to the thoracic cavity where the real important bits are. The most optimum bullet available is a bonded jacketed hollow-point that will reach those penetration numbers.

Both of the bullets below were shot through a jack rabbit and recovered in the dirt behind it. The one on the left could literally be loaded again.

[bobhenstracaptain of 1,000]

Just got this ad from Midway, ordered 500, kinda low on funds now, really wanted to order 2000.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/326584 ... =U011Swing

I understand your feelings with bonded bullets. I have a thousand HP's loaded for my .45's, they're called the flying ash tray. Great bullet! They're specifically loaded for very thin skinned mammals!

Bob

[bobhenstracaptain of 1,000]

(Taken from The Blaze)

"I’m a firm believer in gun control and group mentality; if you learn to control your gun, you can get very good groups!"

Bob

[freedomfightercaptain of 1,000]

Question. If Obama gets his way and guns become illegal to possess, would church leadership tell the saints to obey and turn in all guns? Then what?

Just wondering.

[lundbaekcaptain of 1,000]

If I understand D&C 98:5 correctly, we are responsible to only those laws which square with the Constitution and the Bill of Rights and which support the God-given rights of all people as long as exercise of those rights does not infringe on the God-given rights of another person. How could a law or edict of any sort to relinquish our guns be justified ?

Having said that, I can envision the Church leadership advising members to relinquish their guns. Think of times in past when the Church ledership has advised members to comply with and/or supported laws that infringe on our God-given rights to control of property, for example.

But I can also envision the Church leadership remaining silent on that issue.

[bobhenstracaptain of 1,000]

I have several guns all prepared to turn in. All real old rusty guns picked up at yard sales through the years. Besides that, I was present when a GA told us to hang onto our guns.

Besides that, I have a Newspaper ad all set up that will explain to those after my guns that I advertised them for sale and sold them. When they ask me who I sold them to, I'll simply say I don't remember his name, but he had a New Jersey accent.

Bob

[lundbaekcaptain of 1,000]

If a prohibition of guns is enacted, I wonder if it would apply to front loading guns, or pre 1898 guns, or basically what we might consider antique guns.

Concealment of guns from a determined search would be a much greater challenge than it was back in the days of WW2 or even 10 years ago. Because for a time I trafficked in antique guns and acquired and sold/traded some what one might call classic guns, I figure I am probably on some hit list somewhere and I expect to be fingered for a thorough search of our property in any gun round-up.

[bobhenstracaptain of 1,000]

I'm not at all worried about a gun round-up. All those guys would have to get thru Texas "alive" before they come here. Cops around here wouldn't even think of taking our guns--

Bob

[moonwhimcaptain of 1,000]

[freedomfightercaptain of 1,000]

If a prohibition of guns is enacted, I wonder if it would apply to front loading guns, or pre 1898 guns, or basically what we might consider antique guns.

Concealment of guns from a determined search would be a much greater challenge than it was back in the days of WW2 or even 10 years ago. Because for a time I trafficked in antique guns and acquired and sold/traded some what one might call classic guns, I figure I am probably on some hit list somewhere and I expect to be fingered for a thorough search of our property in any gun round-up.

I imagine it would be an armed militia using metal detectors to go through everyone's place of residence and their property. And I'm sure everybody knows that once our guns are confiscated government will have full control of our lives. Our owning of guns scares them at present. This is our only edge; once lost it's all over for America.

[freedomfightercaptain of 1,000]

Someone on this forum recently said that the NRA was in the government's pocket, (or something like this), but according to a program I watched last evening it sure didn't sound like this to be the case. They opposed Obama's efforts to take away our guns and sidestepping the 2nd Amendment.

They offered a coin that reads "All In, 2012" for a one year membership and an additional folding pocket knife for a three year membership.

Anyone else see the show?

All In Coin.jpg

Here is an article:
http://www.nrapublications.org/index.ph ... our-hands/

[sadie_Mormoncaptain of 1,000]

Hope you don't mind me jumping in here with a question. I am in the market for a hand gun. I've had a glock before and it was a very large bulky gun. I have large hands but when I pulled it back I nearly sliced my hand a few times. In a panic situation it's not a good option for me plus I can't carry it in my purse or self. Just to bulky.

I've looked at a few in the gun shop but I can honestly say there are so many options I'm dizzy. One of my guy friends came with me once and he confused me even more! I need something that will be dependable and small enough for me to comfortably carry but large enough for my long fingers. I guess middle of the range size.

I'd really like to get some suggestion from all of you of what you think would be ideal options for me.

[Fairmindedcaptain of 1,000]

For everyday personal defense your best bet is probably a revolver. Simple mechanics and easy to use and clean, and in most cases small enough to carry in a purse or pocket.

[sadie_Mormoncaptain of 1,000]

My friend strongly suggested the kel tec 9 which is a HD night sight Glock. Any thoughts on that one? It felt great in my hand (perfect fit) but it's over $600 and I'm not sure I want to go that high.

I've never really like revolvers especially because I have small kids. The feel of it in my hands doesn't feel right either. But thanks for the suggestion.

[freedomfightercaptain of 1,000]

My friend strongly suggested the kel tec 9 which is a HD night sight Glock. Any thoughts on that one? It felt great in my hand (perfect fit) but it's over $600 and I'm not sure I want to go that high.

I've never really like revolvers especially because I have small kids. The feel of it in my hands doesn't feel right either. But thanks for the suggestion.

I found this. It may or may not be what you desire but it could be a start. Hopefully it will be of value. Many gun owners think differently so glean from many sources and it will be to your benefit. Naturally, you must find the right gun for you.

So You Want To Own A Gun
PJ Media actually hit me with a pretty tall order with what appeared to be a simple suggestion for an article: a step-by-step process for those who know absolutely nada about guns yet want to arm themselves.

My immediate response — “Sure, I’ll get right on it” — was tempered roughly .00093 nanoseconds later by the realization of the task ahead of me.

Getting a gun — especially the first one — is a pretty big deal.

For those of us who grow up in “gun cultures” where firearms are merely another tool and fact of life, getting your first gun may consist of getting a pint-sized .22-caliber single shot rifle almost as long as you are tall when you are a child. It is a simple and expected rite of passage that is a mark of growing expectations, trust, and new-found maturity.

We’re generally accompanied by an experienced and patient relative — a father, grandfather, aunt, or older sibling — and the time we spend with those first firearms fills us with nostalgia in later years. The adventures spent afield plinking at cans and paper targets or hunting is remembered as much or more for the bonding and the fellowship as it is for the experience of shooting a gun itself.

Over time, if we have good and patient instructors, we learn and apply the rules of gun safety religiously, develop an appreciation for the joy of marksmanship, and find a reverence and respect for nature that those who choose to remove themselves from the circle of life will never know. It is the sort of upbringing I experienced with my father. It is similar to the stories captured by fellow North Carolinian Robert Ruark in The Old Man and the Boy, his much-loved classic.

For those of us who come into knowing firearms this way, guns are pleasant touchstones connecting the past, present, and future. Many others have found similar if more transient first impressions about guns at summer camps or with scouting or similar youth groups, and they either chose to pursue their passion later in life or to hold the experiences as a fond memory.

Unfortunately, as our culture urbanizes and suburbanizes, and woodlands and fields fall prey to mall sprawl and McMansions, the first impressions many of us get of firearms don’t come with gentle guidance. All too often, it comes through the crime reports on the evening news, the bloodied visages of victims of a tyrant’s military oppression, or the heart-rending stories of suicides, murders, and accidents. This is compounded by ever-more-bloody Hollywood entertainment and video games that promote the most shocking and puerile use of weapons imaginable. We’ve become acculturated to view guns as malevolent occupying entities that have the power to thrust bloodlust upon us simply by picking them up, or as booby traps that will go off unexpectedly at the slightest touch. As a result of this cultural brainwashing, it is sometimes more difficult to get adults to act rationally around guns than children.

Despite these manufactured fears, gun ownership in the U.S. is now at its highest level in history. Obviously, even the saturated biases of media aren’t all influencing.

So you’re interested in getting your first gun. Where should you start? First, you need to know what you plan to do with it.

Unfortunately, many first-time shooters feel pressured into buying their first firearm by the circumstance of fear. When I worked behind the gun counter as a salesman at a sporting goods chain, many of my first-time customers were young couples that had recently experienced a burglary or a similar “wake-up call” when a crime shattered the illusion of safety they had in their neighborhood.

This is not the best time to to buy a weapon. When you’re emotional, you tend to latch on to the first thing that might possibly provide something that approximates a good answer to your problem. That leads to buyer’s remorse. Nevertheless, if you have reason to fear an immediate crime from a specific source, just about any firearm is better than none.

In this specific unfortunate circumstance, I would try to guide the customer to a reasonably priced weapon that provides a balance of defensive firepower, practical accuracy, and user safety. At the time and in my long-gun-only chain, that choice was often either a .410 or a 20-gauge “youth and ladies” shotgun. The specific caliber, action, and configuration depended upon the specific characteristics of the users.

I tended to steer physically infirm or petite shooters towards the .410 because of the reduced recoil and lighter weight frame. I have a friend who is 6 feet tall and 240 pounds man and has severe carpal tunnel syndrome. He can’t hang on to a gun with any noticeable recoil. The .410 would be the better option for him or for many people with similar maladies. I typically recommended the 20-gauge for other users, as it would provide an adequate mix of stopping power, inherent accuracy, and safety. I’d then try to tailor the ammunition to their specific living arrangements. If they lived in apartment buildings or densely packed urban housing, I’d generally suggest larger “game load” shot sizes used for hunting rabbits. If they lived in the suburbs, where there is a little more of a space buffer between homes, I’d recommend lower velocity duck hunting or turkey hunting loads. Unless a couple lived alone (no kids or pets) in a rural area, I almost never recommended the “conventional wisdom” defensive loading of buckshot, as the stout recoil, deafening indoor blast, and risk of overpenetration was too great of a risk.

Fortunately, most people won’t find themselves in such a stressful position when contemplating their first gun purchases. Instead, they will be able to go find out what is best for their needs in a more relaxed and contemplative manner.

It returns to that first essential question: What do you you want to be able to do with your gun?

Are you going to buy it and a box of ammo and stick it in the back of the closet for “just in case”? Or are you going to buy a gun because shooting looks like a lot of fun? Do you intend to shoot socially, maybe even in some sort of shooting sport or competition? Are you looking at weapons because of an uncertain economic future? Are you a fledgling collector looking for a historical piece? Are you fascinated by marksmanship?

Congratulations! Any or all of these reasons (and hundreds more) are great reasons for starting down the path to gun ownership, which we’ll begin tackling in more detail in the next installment

Part Two
With our initial installment, we discussed how people come about wanting to own their own firearm, and the pivotal question for all first-time purchasers: “What do you want to be able to do with your gun?”

The answers are as varied as the people considering gun ownership. You may want to be able to protect yourself and others in an insecure world; you may be nurturing a desire to master the skill of marksmanship. Possibly, the competitor in you desires to push yourself and to excel in one of many shooting sports. Or maybe, it’s just: “That looks fun and I want to do it.”

You know what? That’s perfect. As long as you want to do it safely.

Whatever your specific interest, there are several ways to ease yourself into the world of shooting if this is your first experience with firearms. The path I’d recommend to inexperienced shooters starts with a formal beginner’s class. These classes focus on demystifying the mechanics of firearms while simultaneously imparting the essential rules of gun safety.

The NRA’s Home Firearm Safety course is a great non-shooting foundational class that aspires to impart “basic knowledge, skills, and to explain the attitude necessary for the safe handling and storage of firearms and ammunition in the home.” It’s like the classroom portion of driver’s ed — such a class starts you off on the right path, putting safety first. Even if you later decide that you don’t want to own a gun, you leave prepared with knowledge of gun safety, and that’s never a bad thing. In an ideal world, every novice would take such a basic gun safety course (either the recommended NRA course or something comparable).

Next, ideally you would spend some range time with a friendly, knowledgeable, and patient instructor who has various firearms for you to try out and is willing to show you how firearms work and teach you basic shooting techniques.

You might be surprised to find your own circle of friends could lead to contact with someone who may be able to satisfy some or all of those goals. If you don’t find such a shooting buddy, you can find gun ranges in most civilized parts of the country, where you can rent firearms (particularly handguns) and try them out.

Firearms are built with different goals in mind, and no one gun can do all things. At this point, you need to start narrowing down your goals and individual circumstances, as these are ultimately going to inform the purchase of your first gun.

If your eventual goal is to obtain a concealed carry permit or to obtain a handgun for personal protection or sport, the course of action I’d suggest is to first look at a handgun chambered in .22 Long Rifle (.22 LR). The .22 LR is an inexpensive, low recoil, and relatively quiet cartridge that allows shooters of every skill level to focus on the fundamental skills of shooting without being distracted by the kick or noise of larger-caliber weapons. I’d advise trying out both revolvers and semi-automatic pistols to decide which appeals to you, which feels more comfortable in your hand, and which has controls that you can manipulate.

At this point, you may notice a very loud wailing and gnashing of teeth around you. In all likelihood, that is the multitude of handgun shooters crying out in anguish at the mention of “.22 LR” in any proximity to a discussion of concealed carry and defensive handguns. Their complaints are not without merit — the conventional wisdom is that the smallest acceptable cartridge for self-defense is a .380 ACP in a pistol or a .38 Special in a revolver. I’m not disagreeing with that sentiment at all.

I’m suggesting you’ll learn faster, and often without imparting many bad habits you have to overcome later, if you learn your fundamentals with a .22 handgun. It’s all about the fundamentals. Even advanced courses boil down to learning to use the fundamentals more efficiently to promote accurate shooting. As former Delta Force operator and noted weapons trainer Larry Vickers has noted: “Speed is fine. Accuracy is final.”

If your goal is to learn to use a long-arm for anything other than wingshooting, I’m going to make a similar, and unsurprising, recommendation. Semi-automatic or bolt-action (your preference) .22 LR rifles are a ridiculously inexpensive entry into firearms ownership, with decent quality new rifles retailing for $200 or less, and used rifles for even less than that. Unlike most other rifles, rifles chambered in .22 LR are also welcome on many “pistol only” ranges that don’t have the ability to safely contain centerfire rifles. Again, practice is key. So where do you get the training you need in order to learn the fundamentals?

While is is often abused as a political punching bag, the National Rifle Association does a marvelous job of firearms education with the Home Firearms Safety course, and then their hands-on “FIRST Steps” and “Basic” series of classes for owners of rifles, pistols, and shotguns. They also have a well-regarded hunter safety program that is required in many states to get a hunting license. In general, these NRA courses are the McDonald’s of firearms instruction: you’re going to get the same basic ingredients prepared the same way, and you’ll find them almost everywhere. For what they offer as foundational courses rooted in safety, they are hard to beat.

A very useful rifle-specific alternative to NRA rifle training is Project Appleseed, which is a combination of rifle marksmanship training and American heritage that welcomes rifle shooters of any stripe, and is designed around a course of fire tailored to those carrying magazine-fed .22 LR semiautomatics.

We’re talking foundational shooting, which probably is disconcerting news to someone interested in whether their first pistol should be either X or Y. Your first gun should be one that you can use to master the fundamentals. After you’ve fired a few thousand rounds downrange, you’ll have a better idea of who you are as a shooter and will be able to make a more informed decision on what will satisfy your particular needs.

Of course, merely buying a gun doesn’t make you a shooter any more than buying a car makes you a NASCAR driver. In our next installment, we’ll talk specifically about gun and purpose-specific training.

Part Three
We ended the last article in the series by recommending rimfire firearms for training, and left on the note that “merely buying a gun doesn’t make you a shooter any more than buying a car makes you a NASCAR driver.”

You would be utterly amazed by the number of people that seem to think the mere act of purchasing a firearm and a box of ammunition means they are near the end of their journey, instead of at the beginning.

I’d argue that there are at least three types of training that you need to develop competence with firearms:

psychological awareness
functional training
tactical training

Try not to get ahead of me here.

When I refer to “psychological awareness,” I’m referring specifically to the basic level of maturity you have to embrace within the presence of firearms. Whether you are talking a single-shot .22LR rifle at the range or a concealed handgun carried in self-defense, you have to realize that you are in possession of a tool designed to launch dense projectiles at high velocities. Once launched, these projectiles will only stop when they hit something or are grounded. If you do not trust yourself or someone with that basic level of awareness on which safe gun-handling is built, then touching a firearm is completely out of the question.

When I refer to “functional training,” I’m speaking of the bare-bones instruction and practice needed to safely go through your weapon’s manual of arms, which may include ammunition selection and inspection, drawing, firing, addressing malfunctions and misfires, reloading, unloading, cleaning, and storage.

When I refer to “tactical training,” I’m not referring to guys wearing camouflage uniforms and web gear, but the actual tactics and methodologies you would use in an instance where you would deploy your firearm, whether just spending a day at the range, hunting, or in self-defense. In this article, we’re going to tackle training fundamentals for self-defense.

Lets look at these three kinds of training in the context of using firearms for self-protection in the home and for self-protection outside of the home (concealed carry).

Training for self-protection in the home with firearms

Ideally, a gun owner will take an introductory and/or a basics course with their firearms to learn how to use them safely, and will spend time mastering the basic principles of marksmanship and safe weapons handling before even thinking about using a lethal weapon for defense. Shooting yourself, a family member, or a pet because you are unfamiliar with your gun is a sad possibility that can occur if you don’t know what you are doing.

Before or while you are mastering the fundamentals of learning to operate your firearms safely, you can look into getting your head “right” for defense. The NRA, traditional martial arts schools, and many community centers and civic groups offer some variant of situational awareness training, so-called “don’t be a victim” classes. While many people would be tempted to blow them off, I strongly recommend them for every member of your family, from kids to the elderly. Crimes may be plotted out in advance or be spur-of-the-moment acts of opportunity, but they are not accidental. Such classes teach you to be aware of your surroundings and potential threats so that you can avoid them.

Once you have the right frame of mind and the correct foundational weapons training, you are ready to start considering the situational, tactical use of your firearm.

An NRA “Personal Protection in the Home” class and similar courses offered by a wide multitude of instructors will teach you how to construct a layered defense of your home. They may include tips on how everything from defensive landscaping to lighting to security systems to family pets can be a significant deterrent to criminal activity. This kind of training will also show you how to use your dwelling’s architecture to your defensive advantage, and how to refine weapon-specific tactics and ammunition for rifles, pistols, and shotguns. Just as importantly, instructors can provide recommendations on how to store weapons and ammunition safely.

Ultimately, the goal of self-protection in the home course is to put as many physical and psychological barriers between you and any potential threat as is practical to make them think twice about trying to breach your home, and to make it possible to defend your family members as safely and effectively as possible if a home invasion occurs. Firearms are the last-ditch resort in any such scenario, but are an important one nonetheless.

How do you find these classes? Your local gun shops and ranges will often have information about these courses, as will some law enforcement agencies depending upon your location. You can also find out from national organizations, online searches, and firearms message boards.

Training for self-protection outside of the home with firearms (concealed carry)

Carrying a firearm outside of the home is a much more complex situation than using a firearm for home defense.

Once again, I’d strongly recommend the “refuse to be a victim” type courses that teach you to think defensively and to be aware of your surroundings so that you avoid dangerous situations in the first place. There is a lot of truth contained in the statement “an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.”

The same holds true of the basics/introductory training. You simply must know how to operate your firearm safely and effectively before you consider doing anything with a firearm. These foundational courses will teach you the basics, and then you need to practice the fundamentals: not until you get them right, but until you can’t get them wrong.

When you start talking about carrying a weapon outside of the home, things change quickly, starting with legal requirements. Be sure to check applicable laws, as most states require you to get a concealed carry permit. To get such a permit typically requires “x” amount of classroom instruction on when deadly force can and cannot be applied, and you can expect to spend from a half-day to more than a day learning merely these legal parameters, along with taking a written test. Afterward, shooters will go to the range and prove to the instructors that they can manage to operate a weapon without shooting themselves … and sadly, that is just about all that is required in most states.

There is a difference between these legal minimum requirements, however, and actually developing the mindset and tactics required to be “safe and deadly” outside of the home, and the tools you should use. While I’m hesitant to suggest there is any “right” combination of weapons and accessories for concealed carry, the basics are always the firearm itself, ammunition, and a holster.

While I am a strong proponent of .22LR for training, rimfire ammunition is not as reliable as centerfire handgun ammunition, and reliability is the most important aspect of a personal defense weapon. The “conventional wisdom” for years has been that the minimum acceptable caliber for a self-defense pistol is .380 for semi-automatics and .38 Special for revolvers. These are still not bad guidelines.

After the choice of a handgun, the next requirement is the purchase of a good concealed-carry holster that retains the weapon, covers your triggerguard, and helps conceals it, in that order. All too often I’ve seen a new shooter drop $500 or more on a new handgun for concealed carry, then buy a cheap nylon holster that costs less than a box of practice ammunition. The weapon is rarely secure in these “one size fits most” holsters which quickly lose their shape and which are never comfortable, and the uncomfortable-to-carry $500 concealed carry piece now becomes a “safe queen” instead of an important part of your personal on-call life insurance plan. Plan to spend a minimum of $50 for a decent holster (often far more), and don’t plan on having just one. Holsters are situational, depending on what you are wearing at any given time of the year. A pistol carried on an outside-the-waistband (OWB) holster may be fine in jacket weather, but an inside-the-waistband (IWB) may be required in warmer weather. For ladies, the holster choices get even more variable because of the variety of ladies’ apparel.

Last but not least, ammunition matters in a self-defense handgun. Buy whatever practice ammunition you can afford and dryfire practice when you cannot afford to shoot, but whatever you do, do not skimp on self-defense ammunition. These cartridges are designed to save your life at the most desperate of times, at which no person has ever been heard to say, “I’m glad I got this on sale.” From a legal and practical standpoint, there is one obvious recommendation regarding your selection of handgun ammunition. Find out what brand and type of ammunition your local law enforcement agency uses, and use that. Odds are that it will be a premium self-defense cartridge that has been heavily tested and proven. It is also going to be very hard for a prosecutor or civil attorney to argue with you for using the same ammunition issued to law enforcement.

Once you have the correct firearm, holster, ammunition, and permit, I’d strongly suggest saving up the money to take training classes, starting with the NRA’s “Personal Protection Outside of the Home” class, which will help impart some useful skills that you can then use in your later training on your own time. I’d also investigate local training schools and instructors. Word of mouth of knowledgeable shooters is essential here in selecting a good trainer, and safety is always paramount. Look at these training classes as a smart investment. One day of training with a top-flight instructor cadre is money well spent, equipping you with both knowledge and a plan to incorporate into your training.

Source:
http://www.defensivehandguns.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl
http://pjmedia.com/blog/so-you-want-to-own-a-gun/
http://pjmedia.com/blog/so-you-want-to- ... epage=true
http://pjmedia.com/blog/so-you-want-to- ... epage=true

[freedomfightercaptain of 1,000]

Hope you don't mind me jumping in here with a question. I am in the market for a hand gun. I've had a glock before and it was a very large bulky gun. I have large hands but when I pulled it back I nearly sliced my hand a few times. In a panic situation it's not a good option for me plus I can't carry it in my purse or self. Just to bulky.

I've looked at a few in the gun shop but I can honestly say there are so many options I'm dizzy. One of my guy friends came with me once and he confused me even more! I need something that will be dependable and small enough for me to comfortably carry but large enough for my long fingers. I guess middle of the range size.

I'd really like to get some suggestion from all of you of what you think would be ideal options for me.

Don't worry too much about what Caliber to buy. One can compensate somewhat by the load and type of bullet. Full Metal Jacket as opposed to Hollow Point can make a big difference in how effective a gun can be. They both have their purposes, you just have to try out and choose what works well in the gun and more importantly, the target. Try different loads too. Work towards tight grouping. Don't choose a gun that has too much barrel kickback because it takes too long to aim correctly for each shot. You want the gun to fall right back in place for smooth firing. This can make all the difference in the world for defensive shooting.

FYI A good holster helps.
http://www.personaldefensesolutions.net/ccw/HOLS.html

[bobhenstracaptain of 1,000]

Any gun is better than no gun at all! Any gun practiced with is your best choice. I suggest you don't give up on revolvers, best jam proof weapon made. There are purses with slots meant for concealed carry (CC).

http://www.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8&rh=i%3A ... ses&page=1

I have very large hands (I can palm a basketball) however my favorite weapon is a small frame Kimber in .45 cal.. A very expensive weapon!

"IF" you can shoot a .22 well then that's what I'd suggest. But as suggested above a .380 or 38 special would be my minimum choice.

I suggest if you'll spend the time to get used to shooting a good revolver you'll learn to like it. .38 cartridges used in a revolver can be loaded down for 10 yard practice sessions, the weapon reloaded with proper bullets for CC. Loading down is more difficult with semi-auto pistols.

Practice, practice, practice, Make believe the target is a criminal bent on doing you or yours harm, and shoot to kill. So what if the perp has 6 slugs in him, I was very frightened, and look--I even wet my pants

Bob

[sadie_Mormoncaptain of 1,000]

Practice, practice, practice, Make believe the target is a criminal bent on doing you or yours harm, and shoot to kill. So what if the perp has 6 slugs in him, I was very frightened, and look--I even wet my pants Bob

Thank you all for your advice and information! I have a lot to review and think about.

Bob, I had to laugh at what you wrote because when I would go to the range with my then husband he use to get so annoyed because I had such good aim. I love it but I wish I had more time to go to the range. My goal is to purchase it in 2 weeks so I've got time to review the options.

[Fairmindedcaptain of 1,000]

So after spending some time lovingly disassembling and cleaning my 1911 down to each component part, I reassembled it and on the very last step hit a frustrating problem that stopped me for a half hour. Watching the thingamajig that holds the main spring in bounce merrily around the room as I tried to rotate the other thingamajig that holds that thingamajig in place and it got stuck time after time, I should have probably walked away. Instead I persisted and it got unsolveably stuck. Now I have a $900 paperweight.

I may not be as accurate with them, but wow, do I suddenly love revolvers. I'll have plenty of time to reflect on this sudden feeling of attachment as I seek out the nearest gunsmith.

[bobhenstracaptain of 1,000]

Lol, I think all 1911 aficionados have chased that "thingamajig" around! Cheaper than a gunsmith (after it's fixed), a can of WD-40! Remove the barrel and soak it down with the WD-40, then do the same thing with the trigger mechanism, soak them down real good, a bath if you will (do it outside, not in the house). Might cost you five bucks!

Oh, and you needed a spring compressor-----I just tape up a pair of small vicegrips (So the pliers don't mar the steel), push the spring down, lock the pliers, put on the cap "thingamajig" and release the pliers.

Bob

[one4freedomcaptain of 100]

Practice, practice, practice, Make believe the target is a criminal bent on doing you or yours harm, and shoot to kill. So what if the perp has 6 slugs in him, I was very frightened, and look--I even wet my pants

Just one little nit to pick here. I understand what you are saying by shooting to kill, but more appropriately the mindset should be "shoot to stop." The best way to stop a threat is to make a well-placed shot to either the CNS (central nervous system, ie. brain or spine) or to major organs like heart/lungs, etc. It just so happens that these types of wounds also result in death many times, but the goal isn't to kill. Once the threat is stopped, you are no longer legally justified in using deadly force.

There was a case recently of a 16 yr old holding up a pharmacy with a gun. The pharmacist shot the intruder which caused him to fall on the ground and the threat was over. The pharmacist then retrieved his other gun, walked over to the boy and "finished him off." The pharmacist was just convicted of homicide.